surfing

100 FOOT WAVE: THE OFFICIAL BOOK

Reviewed by Pennell Paugh

May 6, 2024 (San Diego)-- World surfing champions Milton and Michael Willis share their love for riding waves of any size in their latest book, 100 Foot Wave: The Official Book. Their book provides a deeper understanding of the hows, whys, and dangers of this exciting discipline. For the Willis brothers, who grew up in San Diego's North County and Hawaii, riding big waves is a spiritual practice. They share the rigors and dangers of the sport, as well as the spiritual highs.

Their book is comprehensive, covering:

  • Contest winners and who really rode the biggest waves
  • How boards are designed and made, along with the development of surfing equipment innovations
  • The best places to find waves and how to train for riding a big wave
  • Notable male and female surfers and their contributions to the sport, and
  • Commemorations of those who have died while surfing.

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CHILD OF THE STORM: HOW AN ANGRY YOUNG MAN FOUND A BOND WITH THE SEA AND CHANGED OUR LIVES FOREVER

 

Child of The Storm, by Kirk Lee Aeder (Mutual Publishing, LLC, Honolulu, Hawaii, 2012, 306 pages).

Book Review by Dennis Moore

September 12, 2014 (San Diego's East County) - Kirk Lee Aeder, currently a resident of Hawaii, the acknowledged birthplace of surfing, has written an iconic book about how an angry young man formed a bond with the sea and changed our lives forever; Child of The Storm.It has been described as “One of the most compelling, tragic, yet inspiring stories in the history of surfing.” It is all that, and much more! Aeder’s book is the story of Chris O’Rourke, a shy young Irish boy from New Jersey who had an affinity for playing in the water. It chronicles O’Rourke’s family being unexpectedly forced to flee their East Coast home and lavish lifestyle, and journey as far west as possible, La Jolla and the shores of the Pacific Ocean. It is very possible from reading this heartfelt and well written book, that the presumed anger in this young man came about as a result of this sudden uprooting of his family.


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RAIN BRINGS URBAN RUNOFF

 
Rain Brings Urban Runoff To County Beaches                       
     
February 28, 2012 (San Diego) -- The Department of Environmental Health has issued a General Advisory for the coastal waters of San Diego County due to recent rainfall.  Swimmers, surfers, and other ocean users are warned that the levels of bacteria can rise significantly in ocean and bay waters, especially near storm drains, creeks, rivers, and lagoon outlets that discharge urban runoff.

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RAIN BRINGS URBAN RUNOFF TO BEACHES: COUNTY WARNS OF CONTAMINATION


November 20, 2011 (San Diegio)--The County Department of Environmental Health has issued a General Advisory for coastal waters of San Diego County due to recent rainfall. Activities such as swimming, surfing and diving should be avoided in all coastal waters for 72 hours following rain due to elevated bacteria levels. This includes all coastal beaches, Mission Bay and San Diego Bay.


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Support community news in the public interest! As nonprofit news, we rely on donations from the public to fund our reporting -- not special interests. Please donate to sustain East County Magazine's local reporting and/or wildfire alerts at https://www.eastcountymedia.org/donate to help us keep people safe and informed across our region.