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By Karen Pearlman
April 25, 2025 (San Diego’s East County – The Anza-Borrego Desert in inland San Diego County is captivating with its beauty and expansiveness, humbling and powerful in its quietness. A landscape of extremes -- sun-scorched earth and hidden blooms, rugged canyons carved by time, and sudden spring wildflowers when the rain gods have been kind -- the desert has a raw quality that strips everything down to the essentials of light, shadow, stone and sky.
Our desert region includes Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, famous for its spring wildflowers and rugged terrain; the city of Borrego Springs, the nation’s first “Dark Sky” community and ideal for stargazing; Agua Caliente State Park, known for its thermal pools; Ocotillo Wells, a wildly popular draw for off-road vehicles; and Jacumba Hot Springs, a town that has reinvented itself and become a destination on its own merits.
Finding your way to the desert where you can slow down, breathe deep and listen to the stillness is best done by taking time to lay the groundwork, map things out and plan in advance. The drive is about two hours to most desert destinations, or an hour to Jacumba Hot Springs, but well worth the effort.
When preparing for a trip (if you want to see the incredible desert flora) keep in mind that wildflower season typically begins in late February to early March and continues through April. Although the timing of the bloom and intensity of flower coverage is heavily influenced by winter rainfall -- with wet winters increasing the chances of a more vibrant bloom in the spring-- the amount of sun and wind in the area can also influence the timing and length of the bloom.
OUR DESERT REGIONS
Anza-Borrego Desert State Park
The expansive Anza-Borrego Desert State Park is the largest state park in California at 600,000 acres (and third largest in the United States). Beautiful, wide open and tranquil, it includes 12 designated wilderness areas. A must-stop is the visitor center at the state park, which has fascinating exhibits on the park’s geology, history, plants and wildlife.
At sunrise and sunset, Anza-Borrego glows with surreal colors, feeling much like a painting. At night, the stars take over, undisturbed by city lights, reminding you of the universe’s infiniteness.
The Anza Borrego Foundation shares “insider” information and offers educational programs. Its website has helpful content and is a font of facts and data. The organization has a visitor center in Borrego Springs that it runs for the park service and also has a wildflower hotline (760) 767-4684 with weekly updates on where the flowers are in bloom. Also view flower updates here.
The Anza Borrego Desert Natural History Association leads seasonal excursions into dramatic landscapes such as the Borrego Badlands, also offering night hikes, classes, lectures and other educational options.
Governed by the California Department of Parks and Recreation, the diverse, distinct landscapes that span from the eastern slopes of the Peninsular Ranges in San Diego County to the western edge of Imperial County offer a step – or thousands of steps -- away from the fast-paced, tech-dependent life in the city.
Anza-Borrego’s more than 935 square miles offer more than colorful wildflowers in the Spring (when there’s been enough rain to bring the flora to life) and include unique geological features from its plate tectonics history, including deposits of fossil-bearing sedimentary rock.
Its 110 miles of hiking trails lead to some breathtaking views and sweeping vistas, slot canyons, cactus-studded slopes, palm oases and even waterfalls.
Popular trails to hike in the area include Borrego Palm Canyon Trail, Fonts Point Trail, Canyon View Trail and challenging Calcite Mine Trail.
The park has 500 miles of dirt roads and several scenic drives, including the Borrego Salton Seaway and the Tamarisk Grove Road.
This is one of the only opportunities many visitors may ever get to stand face-to-face with Bighorn sheep. ABDSP is home to between 300 and 500 of what is estimated to be nearly 1,000 Peninsular Bighorn Sheep that make up the species' population, which extends from the U.S.-Mexico border to the San Jacinto Mountains.
Other creatures inhabiting the area include golden eagles, turkey vultures, hummingbirds, kit foxes, coyotes, roadrunners, chuckwallas, iguanas, rattlesnakes, scorpions and butterflies.
There are also places to get up close with giant whimsical metal sculptures by day.
Read about artist Ricardo Breceda’s amazing sculptures and find a map to view the sculptures.
Visitors can also stargaze in an internationally designated “Dark Sky” region at night.
California Overland Desert Excursions offers a variety of offroad tours, including overnight camping adventures.
Borrego Springs
Borrego Springs, the cozy city that’s just outside of the ABDSP, offers visitors a chance to not only commune with nature nd also a spot to find cultural attractions -- from art shows and museums to musical programs at the Borrego Springs Performing Arts Center: https://www.bspac.org/
Named for Spanish explorer Juan Bautista de Anza and the Spanish word borrego or Bighorn sheep, Anza-Borrego is unlike anything else in the area
Snowbirds are a big part of the local scene, with people looking for warmth arriving in the Fall and leaving before the heat of the Summer.
The Borrego Springs Chamber of Commerce website lists an activities calendar and a “things to do” section with options such as birding, cycling (including along the Borrego Salton Seaway), off-road driving, hiking, golf, tennis and more.
Astronomer and night-sky photographer Dennis Mammana leads tours of the night sky and offers tips for viewing the heavens above in Borrego at his website.
In January and February, the Borrego Springs Film Festival brings movies to the region. For more information, visit https://www.borregospringsfilmfestival.org/
While in Borrego Springs
Things to do while in Borrego Springs include more than just hiking and seeing the flowers (when in bloom).
There are places to play golf --- including deAnza Desert Club and Rams Hill Golf Club. Rams Hill Golf Club is an 18-hole Tom Fazio-designed course with breathtaking views and challenging play. It even has a stream running through it.
Art aficionados can check out the Borrego Arts Institute, which hosts special exhibits as well as a plein air artists’ competition each spring, or head to The Gallery at The Palms at Indian Head Hotel.
There’s even a weekly Borrego Springs Certified Farmers Market (from 8 a.m. until noon through April 25 at the Christmas Circle Community Park) https://business.borregospringschamber.com/events/ for local produce and crafts
Shopping and dining at Borrego Springs’ downtown area includes some charming shops like The Palms at Indian Head Hotel https://thepalmsatindianhead.com/, galleries like the Borrego Art Institute https://borregoartinstitute.org/
The institute has shows all year long, including May 3 to Sept 28, 2025’s “Celebrating the Summer” show.
The Borrego Performing Arts Center https://www.bspac.org/ holds concerts and events, including those put on by the Borrego Springs Community Concert Association, https://borregoconcerts.org
Every October, the Borrego Springs Chamber of Commerce’s Borrego Days Desert Festival draws thousands for the family-friendly event at Christmas Circle Community Park. The event features a parade, live music, art, exhibits, food vendors, a kids’ zone, an adult beer garden, car show and more entertainment.
Dining in Borrego Springs
For those seeking some sustenance, local restaurants include those in higher end spots:
La Casa Del Zorro Resort & Spa featuring several dining options, including The Fox Bistro, Casa Café & Market and The Fox Den Bar, offering a variety of cuisines and experiences.
The Fox Bistro provides a fine dining experience with a diverse and higher price-point menu than the others onsite.
The Fox Den Bar offers a more casual atmosphere and more moderately priced meals with classic American pub fare for both lunch and dinner. Guests can enjoy craft beer, premium wine and handcrafted cocktails.
Casa Café & Market is more affordable and is good for a quick bite or beverage, offering Starbucks coffee and grab-and-go items like yogurt parfaits, sandwiches, salads and flatbreads.
Rams Hill Golf Club’s restaurant is the primary dining venue at the club in Borrego Springs, providing meals throughout the day with panoramic views from its wraparound patio. The restaurant offers multiple televisions in the bar area, making it an ideal spot to catch a game.
Rams Hills has a “19th Hole Menu” for those seeking lighter fare or appetizers and its Ram Shack on the 14th tee operates daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., offering complimentary tacos and other refreshments to golfers during their rounds.
The menu at Arches Restaurant at Borrego Springs Resort & Spa blends American and Southwestern cuisines and operates 7 to 9 a.m. and then 5 to 8 p.m. on Monday and Tuesday; 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday; 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday. The Arches also offers happy hour specials from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday,
Borrego Springs also has other dining establishments with lower price points:
Red Ocotillo https://redocotillo.com
Carlee’s https://www.carleesplace.com/
Pablito's Mexican Grill https://pablitosrestaurant.com/
Big Horn Burgers & Shakes at the Palm Canyon Hotel & RV Resort
Propeller Bar & Grill at the Borrego Valley Airport
Where to Stay in Borrego Springs
Hotels and resorts
Borrego Springs is known for its hotels and resorts, including::
La Casa del Zorro Desert Resort & Spa is a luxury resort with casitas that have private hot tubs or pools, as well as hotel rooms, spa services, several restaurants and a bar.
Palm Canyon Hotel & RV Resort looks like a Western movie set complete with a saloon.
Borrego Springs Resort & Spa is a comfortably appointed, dog-friendly hotel.
Borrego Valley Inn is a Santa Fe-style, adults-only retreat with hot tubs and pools.
Rams Hill Golf Club in Borrego Springs offers stay-and-play options and an 18-hole Tom Fazio-designed course with breathtaking views and challenging play.
Camping in the Borrego area
Campsites abound at ABDSP, but for those looking for other places to stay, there are hotels and other accommodations available as well as Airbnb and Vrbo listings that can be searched the usual ways.
Campsites include:
Borrego Palm Canyon Campground, with 120 campsites that offer scenic mountain views, hiking trails and amenities like potable water and flush toilets
Tamarisk Grove Campground, with 27 sites offering manicured grounds, nature trails and cabin rentals
Bow Willow Campground, with 16 “first-come, first-served” campsites offering vault toilets and scenic views
Blair Valley Campground, with free, primitive campsites that have vault toilets
Culp Valley Primitive Campground, with spacious sites, metal fire pits and pit toilets
Getting there
Several routes take you to Anza-Borrego Desert State Park and Borrego Springs from San Diego, depending on your starting location and preferred route.
The most common way to get to the Borrego area from San Diego is by driving. The journey takes about two hours via Highway 78 East. An alternative route is to take Interstate 8 East. Additionally, Highway 79 North is a scenic route that takes you through the Cuyamaca Rancho State Park and the Laguna Mountains.
There are also several county roads that can take you to Anza-Borrego Desert State Park from San Diego, including County Road S22 and County Road S2.
For those interested in off-highway driving, several backcountry roads can take you to Anza-Borrego Desert State Park from San Diego.
While there is no direct public bus from San Diego to Borrego Springs, you can take the Greyhound bus from San Diego to El Centro and then transfer to the Imperial Valley Transit bus to Borrego Springs. Some resorts and hotels in Borrego Springs offer shuttle services from San Diego.
Some tour companies offer guided tours from San Diego to Borrego Springs, which may include transportation, accommodations and activities. Additionally, some resorts and hotels in Borrego Springs offer package deals that include transportation from San Diego.
There’s also the Borrego Valley Airport and the Agua Caliente Springs Airport for those who want to fly into the region: and County Road S2 is a scenic route that takes you through the ABDSP, offering stunning views of the surrounding mountains and desert landscapes.
The road is paved and suitable for most vehicles, including passenger cars and RVs, and along the way, you pass through several points of interest, including the Borrego Salton Seaway, the Vallecito Mountains and the ABDSP Visitor Center.
County Road S3 is a scenic route that takes you through the ABDSP, offering stunning views of the surrounding mountains and desert landscapes.
The road is paved and suitable for most vehicles, including passenger cars, and along the way, you pass through several points of interest, including the Borrego Valley, the Santa Rosa Mountains, and the ABDSP Visitor Center.
Road Trippin’
If you're looking for a road trip from San Diego to Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, things to do in between, on the way there or on the way back include:
Taking the scenic route through the mountains and enjoying the views;
Stopping at the charming town of Julian -- known for its apple pies, antique shops and snow in the winter;
Exploring Cuyamaca Rancho State Park, which offers hiking trails, historic sites and scenic views.
Other adventures include visits to Jacumba, Ocotillo Wells and Agua Caliente.
Jacumba Hot Springs
Only an hour from downtown San Diegio Jacumba Hot Springs is a popular destination for relaxing,welnness-oriented overnight stays or longer at the dramatically renovated Jacumba Hot Springs Hotel. The small, high desert town also has a thriving art scene, a lake noted for birdwatching opportunities, and the endearing roadside attraction known as the Desert View Tower.
The newly revamped Jacumba Hot Springs Hotel features 20 “chic” rooms, including suites and private casitas with private hot spring soaking tubs. There are also offsite properties, including guest houses for larger groups that can accommodate up to 12 people.
Jacumba Hot Springs includes natural mineral pools, a restaurant, bar and wellness programs, including yoga. It also hosts live music, breath alchemy sessions and desert explorations.
Recently revived reservoir Jacumba Lake is a desert oasis fed by the same springs that feed the Jacumba Hot Springs. A hub for gatherings and recreational activities, the lake has a history rooted in the Kumeyaay people and recent efforts to restore it.
T
he Desert View Tower and Boulder Park is a national historic landmark with a fun, funky gift store that is more like a museum, selling unique items that run the gamut from scientific to silly, and even has a player piano. A winding staircase to the top of the tower leads to panoramic views of the surrounding desert landscape through a telescope. You can also explore the Boulder Park caves, where you’ll spot whimsical animal statues.
The Goat Canyon Trestle Bridge is also in Jacumba, and is has been accessible through a challenging six-mile round-trip hike. It is located in the Carrizo Gorge part of ABDSP. Built in 1932-33 as part of the San Diego and Arizona Eastern Railway after a tunnel collapse, it is thought to be the world's largest wooden trestle bridge, spanning 600 feet and reaching 200 feet in height.
Ocotillo Wells State Vehicular Recreation Area (SVRA)
Ocotillo Wells State Vehicular Recreation Area is a popular 5,600-acre destination for outdoor enthusiasts, offering a range of activities and attractions, including an extensive network of off-road trails, suitable for 4x4 vehicles, ATVs and dirt bikes.
It has dispersed camping and developed campgrounds and is a hotspot for rockhounds searching for agate, jasper and other gemstones in the area's rocky terrain.
Ocotillo Wells includes Box Canyon, a scenic canyon with unique rock formations and hiking opportunities, and Valley of the Moon, a scenic area with unique rock formations and stunning views.
It’s a popular spot for photography, bird watching and star gazing.
Agua Caliente County Park
Agua Caliente County Park is a historic hot spring and campground with some top hiking trails, biking trails, and rich Native American significance. It has long been considered a sacred site for the Kumeyaay Nation.
The area was settled in the late 19th century, with the establishment of a health resort and spa.
Agua Caliente (literally Hot Water) hot springs produce natural hot water, rich in minerals and believed to have therapeutic properties. There are several soaking pools, including a large pool and several smaller ones, with temperatures ranging from 104°F to 108°F.
The park’s campground offers primitive campsites with no hookups or amenities. There are several RV and tent sites, as well as a few cabins and yurts, restrooms and showers, and a dump station for RVs. Picnic tables and BBQ grills dot the campground.
Some tips:
In the desert, always wear sunscreen, hats, and clothes that let your skin breathe and offer some protection from the sun. Be aware of your surroundings, including watching for rattlesnakes and scorpions.
Bring plenty of snacks and water to keep you hydrated and energized during the trip.
Dogs are allowed in some parts of our desert state parks, but with restrictions. Dogs must be on a six-foot leash and are permitted in campgrounds, on designated park roads and at the Visitor Center/Campground Trail, but they are not allowed along wildflower fields or on all other trails.
Remember that rattlesnake bites are especially dangerous for dogs and the heat can take a toll on dogs. Dogs should be kept cool in an air conditioned spot during the hottest parts of the day to avoid heat exhaustion, heat stroke or death.
Be sure to check road conditions before embarking on your journey, especially during winter months.
Check each park's website for road closures and trail closures as well as park hours before heading out to these desert destinations.
East County Magazine thanks the Conrad Prebys Foundation for its generous grant to fund our series of guides to East County's many attractions and activities, benefiting residents, visitors, and our local economy.
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