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Journey through historic towns, high-mountain wilderness, and seasonal splendor
By Karen Pearlman and Miriam Raftery
Overview: San Diego County’s mountains offer a majestic escape from city life, inviting visitors into a different kind of Southern California experience — one steeped in Gold Rush history, seasonal beauty and outdoor adventure.
The region's charming, high-elevation communities provide a refreshing break, whether for a day trip to enjoy pine-scented air and famous apple pies, or a longer weekend getaway. Attractions including Julian, Mount Laguna, Cuyamaca Rancho State Park, and William Heise County Park beckon year-round. You'll primarily discover these gems along Highways 78 and 79 and through Cleveland National Forest lands, including wilderness areas and even spectacular waterfalls.
Other towns to visit include Santa Ysabel, Wynola, Descanso, Pine Valley, Guatay, and Warner Springs.
Our mountain areas are beautiful all year long with winter snowfall, colorful fall foliage, summer days ideal for hiking or camping, and springtime when wildflowers bloom and waterfalls are flowing.
Julian & Santa Ysabel: Gold, apples and history
The historic town of Julian is the heart of the mountain region, a national historic landmark founded during the short-lived Gold Rush and preserved with original and replica old West facades. The rush began in early 1870 when cattleman Fred Coleman found the first fleck of gold. It was San Diego's only gold rush, lasting until around 1900.
The Julian Chamber of Commerce’s website https://visitjulian.com offers in-depth info on everything from upcoming events to lodging and restaurants in Julian. Julian and local businesses host many events, including apple and harvest festivities, a fall grape stomp, a Fourth of July parade, tasting events, a melodrama production, and a Christmas Country fair with lighting of a huge outdoor holiday tree.
The town itself was named in honor of Mike Julian, one of two Confederate veteran cousins -- the other being Drue Bailey -- who headed west from Georgia after the Civil War. Julian later became the San Diego County Assessor. While gold put the town on the map, its apple orchards and famous pies keep visitors flocking back.
Must-See Attractions and Lodging in Julian include:
Pioneer Museum: This is an excellent starting point to immerse yourself in the town's history, detailing Julian's origin as a Gold Rush settlement. The Julian Historical Society is housed in a former church building on a hill above the museum.
Gold Rush Tours and Mines: Get a firsthand look at the town's founding industry. The Eagle Mining Co. (formerly Eagle Peak Mine) offers tours where you can explore the tunnels and learn about 19th-century mining techniques. You can even try your hand at gold panning. Visit https://visitjulian.com/tours-gold-mines
Julian's Famous pies and cider: Sample pies from iconic spots such as the Julian Pie Company (with locations in Julian and nearby Santa Ysabel) and Mom’s Pie House. The area is also home to multiple breweries, wineries, and cideries, as well as numerous restaurants. Here’s a directory of food and drink places in Julian.
Seasonal apple and harvest time fun: Enjoy “U-Pick” apples during harvest season and other farm-oriented fun. Local businesses such as Julian Farm and Orchard,Julian Mining Company and Fort Cross Old Timey Adventures in the Julian/Wynola/Santa Ysabel area offer family-friendly activities and seasonal events.
These include Daffodil Days, Lilac Days, pumpkin patches in fall, music with a jug band, pioneer skills such as archery and tomahawk throwing, hay rides, a haunted hayride at Halloween, Gold Rush Days, a petting zoo, gold panning and gem sluicing.
Historic and charming lodging: Experience history at the elegant Julian Gold Rush Hotel, retreat to the exclusive Orchard Hill Country Inn, or enjoy a unique stay at Wikiup Hummingbird Hotel and llama preserve.
There are many vacation cabins to rent through realtors or vacation lodging companies. You can even stay in a covered wagon at Banner Ranch, located between and Borrego Springs.
Shopping in historic Julian: Stroll through the timelessly preserved gold rush town in Julian’s historic downtown to browse through a variety of charming shops offering gift items, hand-made goods, clothing, and specialty items. Here’s a directory of stores.
William Heise County Park: Known as the “Jewel in the wilderness,” this tranquil park is known for its hiking trails and variety of accommodations for overnight stays. Visitors can utilize RV and tent camping areas, as well as rent basic cabins.
Volcan Mountain is a county-run wilderness preserve with a trail to the top.
Santa Ysabel, Wynola & Warner Springs
South of Julian lie Wynola and Santa Ysabel. This area can be confusing, since businesses may have different city addresses in the same block or across the street, with some Wynola and Santa Ysabel businesses listing their locations as Julian. At Santa Ysabel, you can take the turnoff to Warner Springs, the northernmost point in the mountain region, which also takes you past the Santa Ysabel Mission.
The historic Santa Ysabel Mission, known as St. John the Baptist Catholic Church at Santa Ysabel Indian Mission, is a site of deep historical significance in the San Diego backcountry. It was founded in 1818 by Spanish padres as a submission to the San Diego Mission de Alcala. It functions today as a parish of the Diocese of San Diego that continues to serve the local Native American population and others.
A stop at Dudley's Bakery in Santa Ysabel is essential for fresh-baked treats. The bakery, established around 1963, is known for offering a wide selection of delicious breads, pies, pastries, and fruit bars, such as delicious apple-date bread, jalapeño cheese bread, and of course—apple pies. It also features a gift shop.
Jeremy’s on the Hill is a farm-to-table restaurant with a Cordon Bleu trained chef, just outside of Julian in Wynola.
Julian Station next door to Jeremy’s has charming shops selling goods from Western décor to Native American jewelry. There are also multiple tasting rooms where you can savor beer, Mexican fruit drinks, and local wines paired with chocolate.
Wynola Junction Antiques is worth a stop, with several rooms filled with vintage and antique collectibles.
Julian Weaving Works in Santa Ysabel features beautiful and colorful hand-woven shawls, scarves, hats and more. They also offer weaving lessons.
Santa Ysabel County Preserves offer extensive hiking and riding trails and is home to a Nature Center for visitors.
Warner Springs Wine Country: This community features scenic wineries, including Sierra Roble Winery and Vineyard, Hawk Watch Winery, and Emerald Creek Winery.
Mount Laguna & Cuyamaca: high peaks, a lovely lake, and an accessible waterfall
For a true wilderness experience, this region offers dramatic mountain vistas, high-elevation camping, and pristine water features, easily accessed via Highway 79.
Mount Laguna:
Perched atop Sunrise Highway crowning the Laguna Mountains, this area is a gateway to the Cleveland National Forest and a destination for all seasons. In winter, its higher peaks are often the first to get snow, turning them into a seasonal attraction for sledding and snow play. In spring, meadows may be abloom with wildflowers, turning a verdant green in summer. In fall, watch for golden oak trees.
The U.S. Forest Service runs a visitor center on Mt. Laguna, an area rich in wildlife, from deer to wild turkeys.
Lodging and cabin accommodations are available at the Laguna Mountain Lodge (https://lagunamountain.com).
Campgrounds, such as Burnt Rancheria Campground, are renowned for dark skies great for stargazing. San Diego State University even runs an observatory on Mt. Laguna. Reserve a camping spot on Mt. Laguna.
Popular hikes for enjoying panoramic views include Stonewall Peak and Cuyamaca Peak, with elevations of 5,700 and 6,512 feet respectfully.
The Pacific Crest Trail, a national scenic trail, also runs through this area
Cuyamaca Rancho State Park: This magnificent natural area offers more than 100 miles of trails and popular camping at Green Valley Falls and Pasa Picacho. Green Valley Falls can be reached with a short, gentle hike. Pasa Picacho has cabins including some with ADA accessibility.
Lake Cuyamaca: This stunning, high-mountain lake is periodically stocked with trout and offers fishing, boating and wildlife viewing opportunities, including chances to spot bald eagles that nest on the island in the lake’s center or Canada geese along the shoreline. There’s a level hiking trail around the lake where sightings of deer, racoons, coyotes and other wildlife are possible.
Boat rentals range from kayaks and pedal boats to rowboats, motor boats, and pontoons. You can fish from a dock, a boat that you rent or bring, or you can bring a float tube. For info on boats and fishing, visit http://www.lakecuyamaca.org. There’s also a pub with lakeview dining and a tackle shop that in winter has sleds, snow disks, mittens and more.
The I-8 Corridor: Rugged Trails and Backcountry Charm
Traveling along Interstate 8 reveals a collection of quiet mountain communities north of the highway, known for their rustic charm and proximity to the most challenging wilderness areas.
Descanso offers history and hospitality, starting with the historic Descanso Town Hall, a landmark that hosts community events, notably the annual Descanso Days fair and parade in June. The Descanso Junction Restaurant is a community favorite for home-style cooking including barbecue and more. Wood tables display brands from historic ranches across East County. Alpacas and Friends is an alpaca ranch in rural Descanso open for special events.
Guatay is a small, quiet, unincorporated mountain along Old Highway 80. It retains a rustic, small-town charm rarely seen in Southern California and a scenic, peaceful drive between Descanso and Pine Valley, with beautiful foliage, especially in the fall. Guatay Mountain is a hiking destination here. The highway stretch between Guatay and Pine Valley is a great place for fall foliage viewing, typically in late October or November.
Pine Valley is a place for a peaceful retreat. Pine Valley County Park is a key feature, offering open lawns, sports fields, and family picnic spots. The town hosts its annual Pine Valley Days parade and festival each July. Kitchen Creek Falls in Cleveland National Forest is a popular hiking destination in winter, spring and fall. You’ll need an adventure pass from the U.S. Forest Service; details here.
Ultimate Hiking Challenges
The I-8 corridor provides access to some of the most challenging areas in the Cleveland National Forest; the trailhead is some 30+ miles off the beaten track. For experienced, prepared hikers, the forest hosts difficult seasonal trails to Cedar Creek Falls and Three Sisters Falls (located between Julian and Descanso).
A permit is strictly required for hiking to these falls; permits are available by searching here: Cedar Creek Falls, Cleveland National Forest - Recreation.gov
These are rugged, steep hikes with little or no shade for long stretches. These two trails have more helicopter rescues than any other local trails, are unsafe for dogs, and jumping or diving off rocky cliffs is prohibited for safety’s sake.
Though challenging, the rewards for trekking to Cedar Creek Falls or Three Sisters Falls are spectacular for much of the year, when falls plummet hundreds of feet into swimming pools below.
Cautionary notes: These mountain areas are also home to wildlife including mountain lions and rattlesnakes. Hike with a friend, watch your surroundings, and considering bringing a walking stick, whistle, and phone with GPS though cell service is not always available in remote locations. Hot weather can make steep trails more challenging, so always carry more water than you think you’ll need.
In winter, snowfalls often bring traffic “snow jams” as travelers head to the mountains for snow play. Chains may be required during a winter storm, though roads are quickly ploughed afterwards. Best bet for enjoying snow activities such as snowball fights, snowman building and sledding is to head up on a weekday after a snowstorm. Be aware of parking restrictions in some areas. Heaviest snow is typically along Sunrise Highway in the Mount Laguna area, though you may find substantial snow at times in Warner Springs, Julian, or even Cuyamaca.
East County Magazine gratefully acknowledges a generous donation from the Conrad Prebys Foundation to support our “Visit East County” reporting.
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